Model 67 ‘Angora’

[1956]

Avice Bowbyes Papers, MS-2226/001. Hocken Collections

[Paris]

Like Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ collection, Balmain’s ‘Jolie Madame’ silhouette was a countermeasure to the utilitarian style of wartime fashion imposed by rationing. The ‘look’ was embodied in Balmain’s ‘tight-waisted, large busted’ designs where he made use of luxurious woollen fabrics and exotic furs, like the imported wool dress and coat with lynx collar featured in this photograph. ‘Jolie Madame’ is also the name of a Balmain perfume brought out in 1953.